As
a former resident of New Orleans, I’m no stranger to soul
food. I often find myself wandering around Detroit looking for new
breakfast nooks and tucked-away taverns in which to dine on fresh
fish, barbequed chicken and all of the homemade extras that can
make or break a soul food establishment.
With so much experience behind my ever-expanding belt, I decided
to belly up to the tables at Ypsilanti Seafood (301 E. Michigan
Avenue, 481-0544) and order their veritable cornucopia of fried
goodness, the Seafood Platter. For just under $13, you can sample
a choice of fish, shrimp, scallops, clams and sides. Like your fish
breaded? They’ve got that. Like it grilled? They’ve
got that. Catfish, roughy, perch, pickerel. The menu is highly customizable
for a range of tasty treats. When you’ve had your fill of
things with gills, I highly recommend delving into the selection
of sides. Anyone can make macaroni and cheese, right? Try the version
found here. You’ll never think of macaroni the same way again.
Everything here seems made from scratch: The potatoes are light
and fluffy. The gravy tastes the way gravy should, complete with
lumps. The sweet potato pie is creamy, with a fluffy crust that
begged to be forked into. My meal reminded me of the midnights I
spent in New Orleans enjoying the slower and finer things of a simpler
life.
I had the chance to meet Ypsi Seafood’s owner, Al Robinson,
who isn’t afraid to get his hands dirty in the kitchen. Al
grew up in the South where fresh seafood was a way of life. He tells
me a few tales of his youth about his family cooking whatever they
could get, adding their personal touches to any kind of fish, then
passing on their recipes. He brings these recipes home to Ypsi with
solid meals served in an atmosphere that is equal parts Grandma’s
Kitchen, Coney Island and BET-on-the-TV ComfortLounge.
Robinson’s warm smile and gentleman-of-leisure demeanor suit
his establishment. Ypsi Seafood is a place to which you can take
your kids. It’s a place to which you can take your date. It’s
a place to which you will want to take your appetite. No matter
what you think of seafood, you’ll find something to like,
even if it’s just the relaxed atmosphere and ambience of soul.A2P
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